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LEATHER TERMINOLOGY

Crafting with leather is an ancient art, spanning cultures and generations. Explore our Leatherworking Terminology, a treasure trove of terms, both familiar and obscure.

Aniline dyed

This is a transparent dye derived from coal tar. It seeps into the material, enriching its color while allowing its inherent characteristics to shine through. This allows the leather to retain its authentic beauty and distinctive features.

Bonded leather

This composite material is made from shredded leather scraps bonded with adhesive, coated with polyurethane or other synthetics. While it mimics leather's appearance and texture, it lacks durability, prone to peeling or deterioration.

Belt blanks

"Belt blanks" are pre-cut strips or lengths of leather prepared for making belts. They come in standard widths and lengths. Some may have pre-punched holes for buckles and hardware. They provide a convenient starting point for crafting belts.

Bridle

Refers to a durable and smooth type of leather, often used for equestrian gear like bridles and reins due to its strength and ability to maintain shape. Also popular for crafting high-quality belts, wallets, and other leather goods where durability and a polished appearance are desired.

Bellies

Referring to the lower, softer portion of the animal hide, typically found in the belly area. This section of the hide may have a looser grain and more irregularities compared to the higher-quality sections like the shoulder or back.

Branded

Refers to hides with one or more marks made by a hot iron on a cow's skin to indicate ownership. Brands impart unique character and may be desirable depending on your project's requirements.

Carving

Leather carving is a craft technique where intricate designs are carved into the surface of leather using specialized tools. It's commonly used to embellish leather goods like belts and wallets, adding decorative elements and enhancing their aesthetic appeal.

Chrome tanned

Using chromium salts to tan hides, chrome tanning preserves and softens them faster than vegetable tanning. The result: softer, supple, uniformly colored leather, more water-resistant, and less prone to stretching. Ideal for upholstery, footwear, and leather goods.

Casing

Casing is when you wet leather to make it softer and easier to shape, emboss or carve. It's crucial in leathercraft for better manipulation and detailing.

Drum Dyed

Drum dyeing is a leather coloring process where hides are immersed in a rotating drum filled with dye. This ensures consistent coloration throughout the leather, typically for applications requiring uniform color, such as automotive upholstery or high-end leather goods.

Dye through

"Dye through" or "struck through" refers to a dyeing method where the color penetrates completely through the leather, ensuring consistent coloring on both sides — the grain and flesh. This results in uniform color even if the leather is cut or scratched.

Embossing

Embossing is when a design or pattern is stamped or pressed into the leather, creating raised or indented areas. It's a popular technique for adding decorative elements and texture to leather goods.

Full grain

Highest quality leather, crafted from the animal hide's top layer, retains its natural grain pattern and imperfections. With exceptional durability, strength, and natural beauty, it develops a rich patina over time, ideal for applications emphasizing quality and longevity.

Flesh side

The "flesh side" of leather is its inner side, once the animal's skin. It's rougher than the outer "grain side," often left untreated during processing.

Grain side

This term designates the outer side of a hide or skin and describes the pattern of the surface after the hair or wool has been removed.

Hand

This refers to the feel and quality of the leather when touched or handled. It includes characteristics like softness, flexibility, and smoothness, impacting the final appearance of the product.

Hair-on

Hair-on hides are when the animal's hair or fur is left intact on the surface. They're used decoratively in items like bags, rugs, jackets for added texture and visual interest.

Nubuck

This is a type of leather that's been sanded to create a soft, velvety texture, similar to suede but with a finer grain. It's prized for its luxurious feel and durability, often used in high-end footwear, bags, and upholstery.

Oil tanned

This leather is treated with oils to enhance softness, flexibility, and water resistance. The process involves immersing the hide in oil or applying it to the surface to penetrate the fibers. It is often used in rugged outdoor gear and heavy-duty workwear.

Patina

Refers to the natural sheen that develops on leather over time from wear and exposure to the environment. It adds character and richness to the material, reflecting its history and use.

Get to know the different cuts

Understanding these different cuts of leather can help you make informed choices when selecting leather for your projects.

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Pull-up Leather

Initially, the tannery applies a base dye before layering additional dyes and oils to create a uniform, darker appearance. Over time and with regular use, the base dye's character emerges, resulting in a well-worn finish and vintage look with unique coloration.

Remnant

Smaller leftover pieces of leather, known as remnants, offer valuable opportunities for smaller projects, patchwork, or experimentation. Keeping a collection on hand allows for creative and resourceful endeavors.

Rawhide

Rawhide is unprocessed leather made from cleaned, de-haired, and dried animal hide. It's stiff and tough, used for items like dog chews, drumheads, and crafts. When wet, it becomes pliable and can be shaped or molded before drying again into a rigid form.

Suede

Leather carving is a craft technique where intricate designs are carved into the surface of leather using specialized tools. It's commonly used to embellish leather goods like belts and wallets, adding decorative elements and enhancing their aesthetic appeal.

Stamping

Also known as tooling, involves using specialized stamping tools to create patterns or textures on leather. It's a versatile technique for adding decorative elements to items like belts, wallets, and bags.

Shearling

Shearling is sheepskin or lambskin that's been tanned with the wool still attached. It's used to make warm clothing like jackets and boots, valued for its soft texture, warmth, and durability.

Skiving

Skiving is a leatherworking technique where a thin layer of leather is shaved off to reduce thickness or create a tapered edge. It's commonly used to smooth seams or reduce bulkiness in leather projects.

Splits

These are layers of leather separated from the top grain during splitting. Thinner and less durable than full-grain leather, they're used for linings or lower-quality goods.

Top grain

This is the topmost layer of the animal hide, situated just below the hair. It undergoes sanding and buffing to remove imperfections while retaining the natural grain pattern and characteristics. Known for its durability and flexibility, top grain leather is commonly used in high-end products like furniture, handbags, and wallets.

Upholstery

Upholstery leather is commonly used for furniture, airplane, bus, and car seats. It's sourced from large cattle hides, often split multiple times. Higher grades come from top cuts, while lower grades are from splits.

Vegetable tanned

Vegetable-tanned: This leather is made using plant-derived tannins, resulting in a durable material with a natural scent. Prized by artisans for its beauty and workability, including stamping, wet forming, and tooling, it develops a rich patina over time and is used in high-quality leather goods and crafts.

Weight

"Weight" refers to the thickness or heaviness of the leather, measured in ounces (oz) or millimeters (mm). It affects durability and flexibility, with lighter weights suitable for garments and heavier weights for items like tooling, belts and bags.

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